I have ploughed through two books in the past few days, ‘Bright Shiny Morning‘ by James Frey described by The Times as, “A compulsive piece of popular fiction.” What an awesome read and I am pretty sure James has thrown some of his real life experiences into this book. I am going to get his first book about his own story ‘a million little pieces‘ his website is > James Frey
The other book I have read being ‘Breath’ by Tim Winton which is a surf centric tale described by The Sunday Telegraph as, “A love letter to the sea and a moving coming-of-age story…Rapturous.”
Breath, was an easy read which I finished on an 8 hour flight. It is the story of addiction, the constant quest to feed the drive and need to surf bigger and more dangerous waves by two youngsters and their guru/surf coach.
Yet at the same time that the trio are feeding their hunger Eva the guru’s partner is being starved of her adrenalin rush that she used to get from extreme free style skiing. Due to a career ending injury she now lives as far away from the snow as possible. Unfortunately for her she is involved with the trio and their quest, highs and lows have serious impacts on her lifestyle choices. Follow Tim Winton on Facebook > Tim Winton
Is it possible to hide or block out that rush once experienced? A question that maybe most of us would not want to answer and perhaps a few already know how they are going to deal with it.
One thing that is sure, is that the stoke from big wave surfing is highly addictive and as my hero Kelly Slater once stated, ‘… once you’re in, that’s it, you’re in for life..’
In search of the stoke… See you somewhere!
p.s. my next book for the flight home is ‘Dreams from my father’, by Barack Obama who by the way is a surfer > Barack Obama surfing
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